Homestay Harmony: Uniting Cultures in Antigua’s Heart

On our last Sunday in Antigua, I decided to spend time alone and visit Central Park. All around me are hard-working street vendors, women selling fruit, lively musicians, and large families enjoying the cool evening weather of the highlands. Before leaving the US, I was nervous about how different the environment may feel or how differently I may be perceived. As a Black and Mexican woman in America, I am often reminded in various ways how my cultures are perceived. Whether it be negative or positive, I am constantly aware of what separates me from the majority. But, here in Antigua, I am surrounded by the kindest people I have ever met and people from all walks of life. In the park, there are musicians from France playing music from America while tourists and locals enjoy the beautiful sounds they are making. We each come to Antigua for our own reasons, whether that is to visit the gorgeous and powerful active volcanoes, study the rich Maya culture, or try amazing Guatemalan food. Regardless of these reasons, we all come together in this one place to experience something new that adds a story to our lives. One story I will tell for the rest of my life is about the incredible people that we got to meet in our homestay. Our homestay family, Doña Ana and Don Carlos, often host people from all over the world. When we arrived, a 35-year-old woman named Ivana from Slovakia was already staying in the home to learn Spanish. Soon after, a 24-year-old man named Mao from Japan arrived and began his Spanish lessons in Antigua. Although we come from different countries and life experiences, these two incredible individuals would change the direction of our study abroad and we would grow to become a small family. Each day that we had breakfast, lunch, and dinner together, our conversations grew from simple formalities to understanding what makes each of us the people that we are today and sharing lessons and stories to help each other in the future. Ivana studied economics in Slovakia but began traveling all around the world to gain new perspectives and find her passion. This led her to begin living in Antigua and begin her journey of learning Spanish. Mao worked in the business sector in Japan but came to Antigua to learn Spanish because the following year, he would begin living and volunteering in Paraguay to teach students about computers. These incredible individuals taught me that regardless of where you begin in life, there is always room for growth and to find your passions. I am forever grateful for the experiences I had living with Doña Ana and Don Carlos because, without them, I would have never met these extraordinary people I get to call my friends.

IMG_0972Last Day in Antigua with our Host mom (from left to right, Carlos, Chisom, Shiang, Me, Jordan, Ivana)

Weaving History: 13 Threads of Maya Resilience

While in Guatemala, my project focuses on gender dynamics throughout the ancient, colonial, and contemporary history of the Maya, specifically through the lens of textile production. This week, our group had the privilege of visiting a textile cooperative in Santiago Atitlán named 13 Batz (“13 threads”), nestled a couple of streets away from Saint James the Apostle Church. After visiting the co-op and listening to the founder’s daughter, Andrea, it was evident this cooperative stands as an excellent example of the strong cultural resilience modern Maya communities display amidst globalization and economic pressures.

13 Batz courtyard

^13 Batz courtyard

Andrea, the 22-year-old daughter of Don Camarón, shared detailed insights into the history of backstrap and footloom weaving used to create traje, the traditional clothing worn by both men and women in Central America. She explained how traje weaving plays a crucial role in maintaining Maya indigenous identity, with intricate symbolism woven into every step of the textile production process, ensuring cultural history is passed down through generations despite modern societal pressures.

Andrea displaying a huipil

^Here is Andrea, the daughter of Don Camarón, explaining the embroidery process on the back of a huipil.

Huipil up close

^This huipil is very complex in design with butterflies, birds, men, and women depicted in detail in the columns of the huipil.

After Andrea’s presentation, Don Camarón invited us to the back of their workspace to see the footlooms. He led us through a corridor to a room with five footlooms, where two men were diligently weaving. As he demonstrated the looms, he explained that creating complex, multi-colored patterns requires significant experience. He then shared his personal journey, which left a lasting impression on me.

Footloom up close

^This is a close picture of the intricate process required to weave a huipil on a footloom. Each thread on the huipil has to be woven into the entire piece, thread by thread.

Don Camarón learned to weave on a footloom from his grandfather when he was young. However, he married early and needed a job to support his growing family, so he worked as a merchant in Guatemala City for 20 years. During this time, he had four sons and a daughter, Andrea. When his wife was pregnant with Andrea, Don Camarón wanted to buy material for her traje corte (skirt) from their town. Unfortunately, with only four weavers in Santiago out of a population of 44,000, the material wouldn’t be ready until Andrea was three years old.

This realization inspired Don Camarón to return to weaving. He knew others in his community faced similar challenges in obtaining woven material promptly. Thus, he founded 13 Batz, a cooperative including both male and female family members, to make traje more accessible to their community.

Don Camarón’s dedication to his community and family is profoundly inspiring. His decision to return to weaving, despite facing discrimination against indigenous men wearing and making traje, has had a lasting impact. Without his efforts, individuals like Andrea wouldn’t be continuing the vital work of revitalizing Maya culture.

Don Camarón at the footloom

^Here is Don Camarón at the footloom explaining the history of the co-op.

Visiting 13 Batz and hearing Don Camarón’s story highlighted the sheer power of their cultural preservation efforts through traditional crafts. His unwavering commitment to his heritage and community serves as a powerful reminder of the importance of resilience and cultural pride. The work of 13 Batz not only sustains a significant aspect of Maya identity but also empowers future generations to keep their traditions alive.

Hasta pronto

It’s almost unBelizeable that only a month has passed since we first said guat’s up to Antigua.

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From the Pacific to the Atlantic we traveled by bus, boat and plane across Guatemala and Belize. exploring a variety of natural environments and meeting many different people along the way.

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We learned a lot a lot about a country still in the process of recovering from a long and violent civil war and saw first hand the challenges nature can pose on people with eruption of Fuego. Yet at the same time we was able experience the resilience and courage of everyday people who despite the trauma, suffering and repression they have experienced in the past remain strong in advocating for themselves and their communities.

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Our stay in Caye Caulker gave me a lot time to relax…

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(excluding the hotel fire)

but even with all that time I haven’t been able to think of a good way to say goodbye so instead I’ll say “until soon”

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There is a lot more of Central America I’d love to see in the future!

-Alan

 

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