The most iconic part of the Space Kook is his hair raising cackle, and in order to augment that audio, we really wanted to have his head and jaw move in proportion. Thus, I set forth on a mission, and in coming back from my long and arduous journey, I bring new knowledge of bike breaks, jewelry loops, and a variety of bits and bobbles found around the shop!
- Skull (Most easily obtained in the plastic variety)
- Bike Break Handles (2)
- Bike Break Wire (2)
- Jewelry Loops
- PVC Pipe
- Flexible Foam Tube (FFT for short)
- Less Flexible Long Foam Cylinder (LFLFC)
- The PVC, FFT, and LFLFC will need to fit snuggly inside one another
- Super Glue
- Hot Glue
- Sturdy Dowel Rod
- Springs (2)
- A needle / punch
Now that you’ve gathered all you’ll need, let’s start with:
- With the mandible in the closed position, measure from the roof of the mouth to the base of the jaw.
- Double check your measurement
- Cut that length of your spring
- Take your punch / needle and make two small holes on the roof of the mouth of your skull equidistant from the center.
- Lightly uncoil a couple loops at the top of your springs and feed them into the small holes.
- Measure the width of your jawbone from molar to molar and cut a dowel to that size
- Using two jewelry loops on the dowel rod, attach the springs to either side of the dowel and glue into place.
- Glue the dowel into the skull.
Your jaw should now remain shut unless force is applied to open it, and also snap shut when that force is removed.
- Figure out how long your neck needs to be, and cut the LFLFC to that length plus an inch
- Cut your FFT to about that length minus an inch
- Cut your PVC pipe to the length of the neck minus 2 inches
- Cut that PVC pipe in half
- Fit your LFLFC inside of your FFT allowing the extra to stick out the top
- Fit the base of your new foam cylinder, the side without the extra, into one of the PVC pieces
- Glue that into place
- Slide the other PVC piece over the top and leave about a 1 inch gap of foam exposed in between the two PVC pieces
- Glue that into place
- Drill a hole into the base of your skull just the width of the extra LFLFC
- Fit the extra through the base of the skull
Bike Break Magic
- Punch a small hole in the back of the skull close to the top
- Thread the bike break wire through that hole and secure it with glue
- Attach the cable to the handle in whatever mounted position will give the wire the most resistance.
- Punch a hole, or attach the second cable to the back of the front teeth on the mandible.
- Repeats 2-3 with second cable.
If all is well, you should now have a skull with tilt and cackle capabilities!