11 October 2024 — 12:00 noon — GAR 4.100
Christine Folch (Duke University)
“Re/Encountering Yerba Mate: Power, Plant Knowledges and the Americas’ Ilex Fix”
Though perhaps lesser-known than tea or coffee, yerba mate is the third most popular caffeinated infusion in the world and its introduction to Iberian explorers fundamentally shaped the development of the Spanish and Portuguese empires in South America. Made from the leaves and tender shoots of the South American holly Ilex paraguariensis, yerba mate has been consumed in the heart of the continent since time immemorial and immediately captured the attention (culinary and pecuniary) of European colonists. All three bitter drinks came into European orbit at around the same time in the 16th century. So, why don’t we drink yerba mate in North America?
Moreover, why don’t Texans commonly drink yaupon, yerba mate’s Ilex stimulant cousin that grows abundantly throughout the state and whose contact with European palates pre-dates yerba mate?
By counterpointing yerba mate and yaupon production and consumption as they change over time and place, from precolonial Indigenous beginnings to the present, this talk explores the processes of commodification and their countervailing forces to show how accidents of botany intersect with political economic systems and personal taste. The story is also one of pharmacological priorities and the creation and transmission of plant knowledges and ignorances. Folch uncovers how market structures and the social meanings of goods influence one another to argue, via the case of the Americas’ Ilex beverages, for the contingency and tentativeness of modern capitalism.
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Christine Folch is an Associate Professor of Cultural Anthropology and Environmental Sciences and Policy at Duke University. She is the author of Hydropolitics: The Itaipu Dam, Sovereignty, and the Engineering of Modern South America (Princeton University Press, 2019).