Ancient & Colonial Heritage in Latin America: Cultural Treasures of the Maya

My overall experience on the study abroad trip was eye-opening. I enjoyed learning about all the symbolism of nature and colors in the structures around Guatemala. The one that stood out to me was the cathedral at Santiago Atitlan. The red, yellow, and white banners hanging on the top of the cathedral’s roof were one of the most stunning things I saw. The colors represented the four corners of the world coming altogether. The whole structure was so massive, yet an inviting feeling encouraged me to observe.
I am extremely grateful for the opportunity to study abroad and see these beautiful sacred places. These structures are something that one always sees and hears about; however, to stand in front of them and walk inside the cathedral is otherworldly. I feel a new appreciation for traveling, something I have never had the opportunity to do before this. I have a new understanding of how big the world is and how each region of the world views everything so differently, which I was not conscious of in the past. The excursion to Lake Atitlan was my favorite because of how the population practiced their religion. Moreover, I loved learning about how the people of Santiago Atitlan expressed their connection to the Earth through architecture and murals. I hope one day to go back to Guatemala and revisit these sites.

Img: https://www.flickr.com/photos/155629884@N04/52191594205/in/dateposted-public/

-Lizet Morales

Maize was all around us during our time in Guatemala; it was sustenance, art, and life itself. While there is plenty to discuss regarding the variety of corn eaten, the meanings of the different colors of corn in a Maya religious context, and the economics throughout time related to growing corn crops, I would like to reflect on the community aspect of corn.

Taken by Caitlin Jones at Casa K’ojom. Image depicts a mannequin made of maize holding a pre-colonial Maya instrument. The mannequin is meant to be a Maya person. May 2022. 

Corn as a crop is not grown alone historically; it is grown with squash and beans. In my mind, corn acts as a supporter of life in this way. With its growth, it also brings more growth. From a Maya spiritual standpoint, corn is birth, death, and the continuous cycling of regeneration. The name Maya means ‘people of the corn’ and comes from the creation story that Maya people were molded into humans through the use of maize.

Reliable, constant, and versatile, corn is still the perfect staple food. Tortillas are served with every meal, bringing families together to share a home-cooked meal. Mothers teach daughters how to grind corn on a metate. Walking down the street, the central church of most towns will have a vendor selling tamales. Corn is unifying to Maya people because it is who they are, but it is also a part of the day-to-day routine and relationship building.

During this program, we learned a lot about the changes that occurred amongst the Maya people through centuries of being in Guatemala, but one continuity that remains is corn. To all the people who made us tortillas, tamales, and a variety of other corn-based products. I thank you for giving me a moment of life.

 

For my final blog post, I thought it would be fitting to use the evolution of my final project as a comparison to my study abroad experience in Guatemala as a whole. After a semester of researching Maya land rights, I thought I knew what I would be learning and gaining from my time abroad. However, as the program continued, I quickly found new passions and began seeing Maya land rights from a new perspective. The hands-on learning experience helped inspire a new capstone topic regarding the struggles of Maya cultural sustainability and current events threatening their sacred sites, something that I would not have discovered solely from readings in a formal educational setting.

Like the changes made to my capstone project, this Maymester prompted transformations within myself as well. After having apprehensions about my solo homestay, I found that this was one of the most rewarding aspects of my time in Guatemala. I was pushed out of my comfort zone through Spanish language immersion and the newfound friendships I made outside of the program. Additionally, I learned to be flexible and adapt to both the natural environment and climate of the tropics, as well as navigate the general health issues that arise from international travel, especially during the age of Covid-19. Overall, my experience studying abroad in the Maya heartland far exceeded my expectations – the extensive knowledge I gained, the friendships I made, and a lifetime of memories will be something I will cherish for the rest of my life.

-Daniela Echavarria

It was so difficult to pick just one picture from the hundreds that I have from this trip, but the one that I chose was of the North Acropolis at Tikal which was taken from the top of Temple 2. For my project regarding sustainable architecture, I read many articles about Tikal and specifically the North Acropolis. It was so interesting to me to go visit this site after doing so much reading about it and then getting to experience it firsthand. I used downloaded maps from my readings to pinpoint which buildings I was looking at and got to take photos and notes on the architectural features that I noticed. This day felt super surreal to me and it felt like the coming together of all of my preparations with our actual excursions. Tikal was also towards the end of our trip and I felt like this moment was made only more special because of all the fantastic people that were there with me! Our group came to be really good friends over the last month and only made the experience that much better for all of us! Overall if I had to pick two words to describe this trip they would be educational and impactful.

-Wyatt Throm

We deal with rain in Austin, and we dealt with rain in Guatemala. Yet, weather there seemed so much more impactful. With “two” seasons–the rainy season and the dry season–that seem to be less predictable as climate change impacts Central America, hearing devastating stories about how the rains washed away homes, crops, and livelihoods in a matter of minutes, or seeing streets become creeks before my very eyes makes development issues that much more real.

There seemed to be two very incompatible things going on: an abundance of water (bad) and a shortage of water (also bad). The former relates to deluges of water being able to flood vulnerable areas or giving way to mass wasting. The latter refers to lack of rains during planting seasons, letting crops dry out and leaving families with no income or food supply and increasing the cost of foods all around, and lack of potable water. Now, drinking water issues were something our group became very acquainted with. Taps, drinking fountains, and random restaurant ice were out the question. Despite relying on filtered water for drinking and teeth-brushing out of caution, a lot of us came down with parasites and bacterial infections that are waterborne. We were a group of wealthy (relative to the population of Guatemala) 20-somethings with the money to buy bottled water, access to filtered water dispensers, and access to running water, period.

All of this is to say, 1) even in our privileged positions, we were still subject to the realities of a less-than-stellar water source, something I didn’t realize was a luxury until I got to Guatemala, and 2) we were still (mostly) insulated from the legitimate dangers of rain events. We all know that these shouldn’t be issues, but they are, either because of lack of government funds, lack of legitimate power, or any other one of the issues facing Guatemala. In Austin, we have entire departments dedicated to water issues, one being Austin Water, who as of 7/1 is hiring for the position of director because the last one allowed for the city to go without a safe water source for a few days, and the Watershed Protection Department, whose entire mission is to protect against flooding, erosion, and to protect the health of the city’s waterways.

I know the official educational purpose of the program is to study ancient and colonial history in Latin America, but what impacted me most were these contemporary issues. Some are the consequence of colonialism, imperialism, and bungled international aid efforts, but that doesn’t take away the urgency or need of the common people. My homestay mom, Doña Dilia, told the story of her petitioning local government officials to improve Antigua’s stormwater infrastructure, with a team of engineers and watershed experts standing by her side. The way she told it, it was Doña Dilia against the world. She petitioned again and again, yet nothing ever got done, or what did get done were vanity projects that didn’t fully address the issue. This has been her fight for nearly 20 years! Yet, the image on this post was right outside her doorstep, with several drainage inlets lining the streets, unable to handle a brief downpour.

https://flic.kr/p/2nv9pfx

Antigua is where we spent the most time during the 2022 Maymester program.  Naturally, it is the location that felt the most familiar to me.  Based out of Casa Herrera, the nearby streets became recognizable.  We would walk the same route almost every day from our homestay, which was about 15 minutes long.  There would always be something new to see, yet the cobblestone streets, narrow sidewalks, and low-hanging balconies made it important to keep your eyes directed forwards.  The Spanish-style architecture, thriving plants, and looming volcanoes never failed to capture my attention.  Meanwhile, locals would address you to purchase their handmade goods, to which “no gracias” became a common phrase.  Another daily saying was “buen provecho”, stated during every meal by Doña Carolina, while serving our group of 8 local cuisines.  The dishes varied, but corn was a constant, with fresh tortillas always available.  Don Edgar would often join us at the table for friendly conversation, which took place in Spanish since the first day.  The levels of fluency fluctuated in the household, yet we never failed to find ways of communication.  This served as a method of learning from the local family and a form of bonding with other students in the home.  We relied upon our homestay family for 3 meals a day, 6 days a week, and the hospitality they provided helped us feel comfortable in a place, unlike our homes.  While I missed the daily luxuries of home while away, this unique experience bonded the group, especially those sharing living spaces.  My hope is the comradery that grew from a diverse collection of people will persist beyond returning to the lives we know.

The last leg of the program featured some goodbyes to the folks I befriended in Antigua Guatemala, and it featured some last minute places to visit before leaving: desperately wanted some atol (a maize-based hot beverage) from the woman who’s known for making the best atol, a visit to the french-latinx fusion crepe restaurant, a stop at a bakery on the way, and some ice cream (although, for my case, sorbet because of my lactose intolerance).  As great as Antigua was, I felt that I’ve done all that there is to do in the city, and so I welcomed the new change of destination my class was embarking through Guatemala and Belize.

At noon, we left Antigua Guatemala and rode in vans to Guatemala City to catch our flight to Flores. Once we landed in Flores, we met the bus that was taking us to the rest of the road trip.  This bus was massive, had curtained windows, and there were enough seats that everyone had two of their own.  Honestly, that bus was a creature comfort, as it became the one constant in this memorable road trip.

Once we made it to the Tikal National Park and had settled our stuff at our lodge, we hiked into the site of Tikal to witness in-person the scale these ancient Maya cities have and hold.  To be honest, I wasn’t too sure what to expect.  We had been studying this site (as well as the many others we were going to visit), and yet I felt some kind of anticipation.  I had seen the photos of Temples I, II and IV, and I had studied as much as I could about this site and its historical significance to Maya archaeology and history.  There was so much to be learned and said back then, and now for me to be there was unimaginable.  I never expected that I would ever have the chance to visit this place, yet I did.  I was about to witness the architectural legacy and political history of the Tikal dynasty!

Before we saw the picturesque temples that Tikal is renowned for, our professor showed us Maya buildings covered in vegetation and wildlife.  It was interesting to see how the jungle swallowed these architectural structures, and it was unimaginable to see the impact plants have on these buildings.  Most notable was the extent to which they blended with the forest once the plants had taken over; as if to suggest that there wasn’t anything there.  And, if you hadn’t known that the hills here were artificial, you would have mistaken them as just hills.  Nevertheless, to see these kinds of structures in person and know that they may remain as they are is curious.  I understand the reasoning behind it (funding, research, the need for new kinds of discoveries, etc.), yet I feel that those buildings need to be recognized and shown as they are.  To demonstrate to the public how the land they’re visiting didn’t look like the way they imagined it was when discovered.

Ceiba tree in Tikal National Park.

Jungle vegetation around Temple I, Tikal National Park.

After going off the path to see these structures closely and the mini-tarantula scare going back, we walked to Temples I and II, and immediately I felt amazed by the scale of these pyramids.  I never realized just how massive these structures were until now.  The way they faced each other, as if conversing with one another as tourists walked around unaware of what these temples hold and say about Tikal and its reign.  Before them were altars and stelae (tall stone structures, either inscribed or left blank, used as markers) at their bases, another demonstration of the sense of scale and animation Maya cities played with.  It was breathtaking to see such histories and legacies in person, and to engage in the intentional space making and design choices made thousands of years ago for the public and court sphere was incredible.

Stelae and altars in front of Temple I, Tikal National Park.

At the Great Plaza, Tikal National Park.

The view from the top of Temple IV, Tikal National Park.

Me at Tikal National Park

Tikal was an incredible site to visit, and I wished there was more time to explore.  We had a day in this park, and we had to visit other crucial sites on our trip to Caye Caulker, Belize: Yaxha, Lamanai, to name a few (each impressive in their own right).  We had to move on and continue with the rest of the trip; Tikal National Park couldn’t take up the rest of our trip.From there it all just kind of blurs.  There was so much planned for this trip — while also making some changes and adjustments after some of my classmates became sick.

One of the more memorable moments of the road trip was when we finally named our bus.  We hadn’t given it a name for the first three days, but eventually we named the bus, Zompopo, after the ants we saw and heard about in Tikal.  That bus, as I mentioned before, was our only constant, because those who were sick had to take time off the trip to make doctor visits.

Zompopo had been with us through the best and worst times: pulling off incredible fleets through the twisting and turning roads of Guatemalan national parks, acting as a place of rest for us after a long day on our feet, having withstood a dying battery while we waited for it to take us to the next stop, and so many more moments.  This bus meant a lot to us, and I’m happy that it was part of the journey.  It was the home we needed while engaging in this road trip.  We parted ways once we reached to the Caye Caulker water taxi port.  Before we left, however, we took a big group photo with Zompopo.

Finally, to end on a farewell note, I spent a good portion of my summer here, and I can’t believe it.  Part of me is amazed I was able to get the funds needed to pay for this trip, and part of me is grateful for applying for this study abroad and making the most of it.  I’m grateful for the privilege to participate in this trip, and I’m happy to share what I have experienced and learned to my community and home.  Most importantly, I’m beyond grateful and appreciative for the support system I have at UT: for helping me through the application process, for the best wishes for the scholarship that made this study abroad so much more accessible to me, and the celebration to be had for someone like me to go and experience this.  As I continue to self-reflect and gather more of my thoughts on this incredible program, I’m glad to follow through with this decision and elated to engage in something that I found to be unattainable to me for the longest time.  I’m grateful for this experience, and I am excited to share the stories and memories I made, and the knowledge given to me from the course, the people I connected with, and the observations I’ve gathered.

Me at Lamanai Archaeological Site, Belize.

I was keeping up with the news during the Maymester and on occasion called my parents to hear about what was happening with them and to catch up.  I would be lying if I didn’t feel some form of accountability and responsibility to check in on my parents.  For a long time, growing up as the child who could speak English the best meant I had to help my parents with so much: translating insurances, calling people about clinic services, and taking care of siblings when called to do so.  Eventually, all this responsibility transferred onto me acting as a caretaker for my family: at times willingly and sometimes out of necessity.

I couldn’t help but feel guilty about leaving to go abroad, because I felt like I was leaving my family vulnerable.  Using WhatsApp, I felt relieved to hear from my parents whenever I called.  As great as it was to hear from them, after the end of a call, I did worry about what would happen after.

During my study abroad, there was news about potential ICE raids, and I saw on Facebook my friends working to organize and inform undocumented folks about what to do and where to avoid.  Even though Austin was a target for leaked cities ICE was targeting, I felt nervous and anxious about the potential for my parents to be hit with one at their workplace, at the grocery store, the neighborhood, or even at the public services they make use of.  I was so afraid and anxious about my family that I would be lying if I said it didn’t take away from the trip.  This was always in the back of my mind: I was afraid that my family would be disrupted, and my siblings wouldn’t have my parents to look after them while I was away.  When we (my parents and I) talked, we were afraid of what could happen, but my parents wanted to support me, and I wanted to support them as well.  Those calls were important to my parents and even more for me.

My homestay mom would check-in on me occasionally, and I would tell her how I felt.  She listened, and I was so appreciative of her for checking-in.

As I carried these fears, I did find space and time to feel calm and focused on the trip.  My friend’s birthday was coming up and, unfortunately, it happened to be the weekend in which most of our classmates organized a hiking trip on a dormant volcano. By the time her birthday arrived, it was just four of us: her, me, and two other friends from class.  It was still a very intimate moment.  It was a rainy day in Antigua, and the three of us were at a cafe.  We meant to study and be responsible, however it didn’t take hold for long.  We did anything but study, and soon made our way to Casa Herrera, a UT facility that acts as our place for class.

Walking past La Merced Church while en route to the local coffee shop.

Enjoying an iced coffee with friends.

The program coordinator insisted that there be cake for my friend’s birthday, and we were excited to see what was in store for us.  Once we all settled in, we had a small intimate group setting with the program coordinator, the study abroad coordinator, the professor.  We all ate carrot cake, and it was some really good cake.  Normally I’m picky about the icing on a cake, but this one was an exception.  Once everyone had a slice, we talked among ourselves: our days, our weeks, and the news that’s coming out lately.

One of the most interesting discussion points we had was bilingualism.  We talked about how weird language acquisition is, and how hard it is for folks to pick it up as they get older.  Eventually, this discussion lead to bilingual identity in America and the experiences this identity holds.  It was a great conversation, and it honestly made me feel better.  I’m not sure if it was the rain, the cake, or the good company for a friend’s birthday, but I felt less worried and had a moment to think and focus on something else other than my family.

View from the rooftop of Casa Herrera.

My time in Antigua has been enjoyable.  I’m trying to keep up with maintaining good street etiquette, confidently speaking Spanish after initially being anxious about it, and enjoying as many coffee shops as I can!  As I made my way to Casa Herrera with my homestay friends, I was excited to go to Lake Atitlan: (1) to visit Panajachel, and (2) the textile workshop the program coordinator set-up for us.  Guatemala is known for its textiles, and the Lake Atitlan area has a variety of designs, colors and types.  One of my non-academic goals for study abroad was to get a shawl.  I find them to be beautiful, versatile, and perfect for the Texas winter back home.

Early in the morning, my homestay friends and I walked to Casa Herrera to meet with the rest of our class for the trip.  I can’t recall what I ate for breakfast, but I can recall how it wasn’t enough.  Once I had enough sunscreen and plenty of bug repellent, I felt ready for the three-hour ride.

On our ride from Guatemala to Antigua, I slept through all of that, so I had no idea what to expect in terms of sightseeing.  From what I’ve seen in Antigua, the way that clouds run on the rooftops of homes and the puffs of soot and red glare from the distant volcano at night, there was so much to appreciate and take in.  Even with anticipation of what the environment and countryside may look like, I was also curious about the infrastructure of the area, taking note of how space was used on the way to Panajachel.

Throughout the whole trip, I noticed the considerable use of agriculture on the mountains.  There was function and beauty to them.  Maybe it was the recent rainfall, but the green of these crops was beautiful and vibrant.  As great as this was, there is something to be said about what else I’ve seen from the ride to Panajachel.

View of Lake Atitlan from the highway.

In Guatemala, there is a considerable amount of poverty; the kind that manifests with hard working mothers with children setting fruit stands on the sides of highways, the lack of sidewalks for Maya women vendors traveling from their hometowns to the tourist locations, and the need for daughters to go and sell their handmade goods in public spaces.  What I saw is the impact of the legacies of U.S. intervention on Latin America and the rise of global warming, and most noticeably the extent of how gendered this violence and damage is to Maya people.  The noticeable impact of Maya women bearing the brunt of all of this was difficult to watch.

This context is important, and I bring this up because to ignore this adds to the erasure and exploitation these women go through while tourists take for granted Maya culture and heritage.  And so, I try to be aware of how my interaction in these communities, cities, and other forms of spaces impact them.  And this is not to say that I have done everything perfectly, I’m just recognizing the privilege I have as a tourist, a college student, and the access to resources that help fund this study abroad.

Once we arrived and settled in Panajachel, we had to walk to our boat, and take it to San Juan La Laguna to visit the textile workshop.  The city of Panajachel is a beautiful area, with a massive market and road full of vendors selling many kinds of textiles.  To list some that I found to be the most interesting were Maya textile office ties, jean overalls with textiles sewed beautifully on to them, and a lot of Five Nights at Freddie’s crochet figures.

As soon as we got to the boats, the water was beautiful and so alive with movement.  To my chagrin (and I’m assuming to most of my classmates), that movement made the boat ride from Panajachel to San Juan a very choppy ride — one in which I kept getting hit in the face with water. Nevertheless, I was excited for the cotton weaving demonstration.  I knew nothing much about the co-op, but I was looking forward to learning more about the process of organic cotton becoming the textiles Guatemala is known for.

Boats at the Panajachel public dock.

A choppy boat ride across the lake.

Inside our boat while crossing the lake.

After the boat ride and the uphill journey to the co-op, my class and I were greeted with this great variety of textiles, colors, and jewelry.  All of it was beautiful.  Once we were in the demonstration room, the presenter readied her materials: raw cotton, the dye, the tools needed for stringing, stretching, weaving and measuring.  In what was so effortless for her, perfected skills from a young age, was so difficult for some of my friends who participated – save for one person (she had the right trick to it).  The way the presenter spun a spindle with one hand while instinctively pulling from the cotton fluff in the other was mesmerizing to see. This was one step of many in textile making.  Throughout the workshop, we were shown the variety of cotton, the kinds of natural pigments used for the dyes, the history of the co-op and its mission to better serve the women who rely on it for their income, and the use of a backstrap loom.  There was so much information to process, but it was all so fascinating to learn.

After the demonstration, we were invited to browse around and see if we wanted to purchase anything.  There was so much to browse through and see, but I had one objective in mind: buy a shawl!  Once I got to the large scarf section of the co-op, there was so many options and colors to choose from.  Each scarf was different with individual patterns and colors, all a reflection of the vision the scarf maker had when creating them. After fishing for some opinions and thoughts, I settled on a black scarf with gray accents.

It took four weeks to make, and it was dyed with charcoal for black and eucalyptus for gray-hued blue.  The information is on the tag of the scarf, and it’s a reminder of how much time this process takes and explains why it’s priced the way it is.  The women who are part of the co-op and make the goods the co-op sells put in so much effort for the textiles.  Fortunately, the co-op pays them immediately once they bring their project to them (some pay the weavers only once someone buys the scarves).

After the purchase, I felt happy.  I felt happy to have bought this for myself and for my use, while also knowing more about the process for what I purchased.

Enjoying the beautiful surroundings of Lake Atitlan.

My first time traveling abroad, and I’m overwhelmed by so many new experiences.  A year ago, I traveled outside of my home, Austin, TX, for the first time, and I have learned so much from that experience.  Now, I find myself again inexperienced and anxious about traveling outside of the United States. There were so many more barriers to face, and I had so many more fears and worries than I did last year: immigration/customs and its forms, exchanging money, adequately speaking Spanish for my Study Abroad in Antigua, and so on.  Even as I carried these concerns and worries, I had to remind myself time and again that I deserved to go on this trip, and that I had earned my place on this trip and the scholarship that made it so much more accessible to me.

Once I arrived at Guatemala City, I was welcomed by the cool, rainy weather that brought a refreshing change from the brutal Texas heat.  With flannel and beanie to keep me warm, the ride from Guatemala City to Antigua was one full of twists and turns.  My heart raced as we drifted and darted through the streets in such escalating weather, but my driver was confident and calm.  He was so much so, I felt comfortable and drifted to sleep for the rest of the ride there.

Once my cohort and I settled into our respective homestays, I was overwhelmed by the change of flora and fauna, the cobblestone streets, and how timeless the city of Antigua was.  Even in such a different space, there was a familiarity to it that reminded me of the home my parents made in Texas: the maize-centered cuisine, my first language (Spanish) spoken in a public space and at my homestay, the dedication to an altar.

Central Park in Antigua Guatemala.

On my first night at Antigua, rather than explore for the first few hours there, I decided to take a nap.  I was exhausted from waking up so early for my flight and exhausted by the new information I needed to process.  Unfortunately, my decision lead to me sleeping through most of the dinner.  Immediately, I felt guilty and rushed to the dining room to find it mostly empty and my plate cold.   Attempting to sound coherent as possible after a nap with so little sleep, I apologized profusely in jumbled Spanish to my homestay.  Fortunately, she told me, no tenga pena (don’t worry about it), and told me I was fine.

After such an impression, I ate my dinner and enjoyed just how welcoming it was.  It reminded me of home, yet it was distinct enough to show me that it was not.

View of Antigua from the rooftop of my homestay.

I started a conversation with my homestay mom.  It began with me asking for recommendations for bakeries to visit.  From there, the conversation shifted to that of identity and heritage.  My parents are Mexican, raised in San Luis Potosi, and I was born and raised in Austin.  With that context, my sense of identity is a mixture of Mexican heritage, chicanx experience, and American code-switching; it is one of the many ways to be Latinx in America.

My homestay mom and I shared stories about our families: my sister’s adventures when she was very young, my homestay mom’s grandchildren and their tendency to grow up so quickly, my parents’ marriage and my birth, to my homestay mom’s engagement story to her husband.  It was fun and it was such a necessary conversation for me.  In our story sharing, we discussed about what it meant to be Latinx: its politics, its cultural heritage, its community care.

We spoke about what it meant for someone like me to be on this study abroad trip, and what it meant for me as a first-generation college student.  We shared and discussed that this trip, and the experience and knowledge I would learn, wasn’t for my own benefit but for the benefit of my community and family.  We concluded just how family-centered and family-focused we, Latinxs, are, and because of this community-making, we have this resiliency and strength that furthers ourselves as both individuals and community.

And so, my first night in Antigua, I found a greater appreciation for my Latinx identity and heritage, and I saw a glimpse of what Latinx pride can look like in a different country.  From that night, I carried myself with a little more confidence for the rest of the trip, and I drifted asleep with very little doubt about whether I should be here.