Design in Context: Milan

I was always told how busy New Yorkers are or how fit Austinites seem to be, but I’ve never experienced the level of busy or fit that seems to be buzzing deep in Milano. Milan has the same feel almost as a New Yorker with individuals rushing around every corner and the most active individuals I’ve ever seen jogging or walking dogs and staying fit. Their lifestyle would seem to be unhealthy with lots of carbs in their diet and many meals (second meal, entree, etc.), but they are all so small and fit it’s amazing. I’m also shocked by the level of interaction I’ve had with Milano’s people. I’ve lived in Austin five years, but I was never asked as many questions as I was when I was walking around Milan. Every turn someone is speaking to me in Italian and pointing in some direction. In each case, I’m not only confused but also almost sad that I can’t lend my voice to them or help them in any way I can.

So far, Milan has been a shocking but delightful experience. The people here seem to be welcoming and I haven’t in any way felt like I wasn’t treated fairly, even though I’m an American. The one bit of experience that I feel I don’t quite enjoy is my lack of voice. I feel that even simple tasks of ordering food have become a giant game of hand signals and prayers that the person in front of me speaks English. I honestly wish I knew Italian. I think that would make this entire journey a thousand percent more enjoyable and enriching if I could really appreciate and speak to the people in their own language. Even though this is a minor setback, I’m thankful for the CA’s that have been extremely helpful and are constantly watching and making sure we find our way. Without their help, I think I would have ended up lost or ordering something I shouldn’t have at a restaurant.

Even through all these different culture norms and newfound experiences, I think the most enriching has been seeing the different structures that are present throughout the city. In just Milan’s backyard is the Duomo and the Last Supper, enriching products of history that will forever enrich and bring value to this magnificent place. I think back to my hometown and even Austin and can’t find anything near as beautiful or as timeless as these structures and the art present in Milan. I love the technology that is present in Austin and the ever present start-up culture, but I can’t help but find a deep respect for what’s present in Milan and how it’s survived the test of time. I hope that by the end of this trip I can understand how large the world really is and how small Austin and my hometown seem to be in the expanse of it.

It’s amazing that a city so robust, so full of energy and so completely different than the US has made me feel right at home. In one week, I have enjoyed a rollercoaster of emotions from happiness to exhaustion to invigorating peace. The fabric of the city has ignited a wonderful texture into my life. Culture differences, yes, of course. Communication barriers? Definitely. Wayfinding difficulties? Always. But somehow, I have found solace and liberty within these boundaries. These experiences have made me embrace the Italian Spirit—in a state of struggle, beauty arises. The contradictions of the city have taken over the monotonous. The blending of the old and new, the ugly and the beautiful, the unfinished with the polished unexpectedly creates a landscape that could only happen organically over a long period of time. The materials of the past become more beautiful as they sit next to new. The Duomo, for example, stands grand next to a shopping mall and above an underground transportation system. Though, they all have different functions, they all fit in nicely together, while the congestion of the city only adds a melodic motion to theterrain. The realization that all these fragments are but harmonious music notes adding rhythm to the city makes me love the city even more.

I am overwhelmed by how much information we have covered and processed in one week—from Divisionists to Fascism to Futurists back to art nouveau. Most of it I didn’t know, some I did. Either way, it has made me appreciate art history and architecture even more, but also made me appreciate the present. Feeling a paradox of my so-called privileged life. Got me thinking … could I have been a great designer in those times? … if I were a working class dreamer? … if I did not have access to a certain amount of wealth? This also got me thinking, these past moments and fragments in time have generated our current state of affairs. Although, most architects and designers were being critical of certain aesthetics and political movements, they were not aware of the environmental impact of their products. They were, however, embracing the small businessman, the craft maker, the hand-work designer and local materials, which reflect the current movement across the globe. Milan did not have to shift in production thinking because they were already locally-minded, they have done so for hundreds of years. Those were and are Milan’s blood vessels. In contrast, the United States has just now (in the last few decades) started reconsidering the art of small.

Visually, the city, is full of beautiful textures.

Point A: Cadorna Station <-> Point B: La Scala (E.T.A. 20 mins.)

We are in the process of creating a powerpoint showcasing the panoramic view of the intersections, then details focusing on the footwear of everyone we pass; also, we focused on the architectural structure and how it changes between each location.

For example, closer to La Scala, the buildings become older and more gothic-themed, and the people on the streets and on bikes are better dressed than those near Cadorna. Most likely, these are people who work in the older, more prestigious buildings near La Scala, and the ones near Cadorna are travelers or work in the shops in and around the city, so they have less reasons to “dress-up”.

The walk is roughly 15-20 minutes, and it’s quite lovely. The streets are nicely shaded, and the shops that line the walkway are intriguing. There are, however, less lovely areas on this walk. For example, there are quite a few areas of construction and a few instances of homelessness. 

The focus is primarily on the social aspect such as how do the people we pass change between locations (shoes and attire, for instance), how does the sidewalk and building facades change, is it walker friendly, etc.?

Italian art is never so simple as to be solely for the aesthetic; Italian artists have set trends, sparked movements, undermined governmental control, and allowed the oppressed to seek redemption. The avant-garde movement of Futurism allowed Italian artists to celebrate and publish works that elaborated the notions of urban modernity and technology. Artists wanted to rid themselves of the old (old style, old works, old ideals and culture), and they wanted to embrace the beauty of modern light.

One of the greatest artists to have accomplished such advances in art is Umberto Boccioni. Not only were his paintings renowned but his sculptures paved the way for modern design and art. As a principle contributor to the revolutionary aesthetic of the Futurist movement, Boccioni created significant pieces that sparked the fire he needed to progress. This ideal behind the Futurist movement is evident especially in his “The City Rises” piece (depicted below).

Another incredibly influential piece at the time was another work done by Boccioni; however, it is 3-dimensional rather than the 2-dimensional pieces of his canvas work. Boccioni was frustrated by the lack of movement in his canvas pieces, so he wanted to create a work in motion. Thus, he created a more effective way of expression in his famous work “Unique Forms of Continuity in Space (1913)” (depicted below).

These two works of art were key components in the advancement of Futurism. Despite his short time working in Futurism, Boccioni made grand strides with his works, and they helped shape the “future of Futurism”. The ideas of embracing and romanticizing labor and movement are evident in modern pieces that were influenced by previous works such as these.

One of the first things one notices when arriving in a new destination is the stylization of the architecture within the city. Geographical similarities within Milan is abundant, and this is a fact that is can be seen as soon as one first steps foot into one of the many districts within Milan. For me, what seemed to stand out the most within the architecture within Milan was how many of the apartment complex’s share three dominant characteristics; quaint, close-knit, and colorful buildings can be found on nearly every street and corner. More specifically, what is most notable about these buildings is that fact that although they may appear to be synonymous in their makeup, they each possess unique traits that define their individuality. This is something I noticed as soon as I entered my apartment within the city.
From my building, I have an incredible view of a bright red toned apartment that can be seen across from my room. I spent a few minutes analyzing its features in comparison to other buildings I saw upon my arrival. Although one may carry the notion that these apartments may look incredible pre-planned and fixed, further analysis shows definite evidence that each building carries unique features that solidify their individuality. For instance, the building across my apartment is notably plain in contrast to a few others on my street. This building is designed with plain windows (consisting of a modest white frame), simple lines, as well as quaint details such as lighting fixtures. However, what makes this building stand out is its rich, red toned surface that catches the eye. While a building may appear the be deceivingly rich in its appearance, this is merely a mirage that occurs due to specific color choice. Incredibly simple buildings can be transformed through the use of paint.
This is a theme that can be seen in a variety of other structures within Milan as well. On a tangent, something that is also notable is the use of iconic or more notable buildings in order to draw attention to less prevailing structures. I was most aware of this in the district around Duomo, where a variety of shops and quaint stalls can be seen throughout the area. All of these stores were greatly enhanced in structure and presentation due to the fact that they were all adjacent to the most iconic structure within Milan. Ironically enough, in comparison to the similar buildings that can be seen throughout Milan, the Duomo is the most unique in its style and construction. The Duomo’s own institution of individuality against the identical features within the city testifies the capability of uniqueness to prevail in popularity regardless of the style that may appear to be commonplace.

During our first day of orientation in Milan walking tour of the city’s fashion district, IES Abroad Director, Roberto Andreoni, mentioned the strange juxtaposition of the city’s residential and urban architecture: old and awe-inspiring buildings stand squeezed next to mundane and “ugly” new constructions. His statement reminded me of the Futurist Manifesto and their goal to diverge from antiquity and tradition, embrace the change that came along with industrialization.

Roberto Andreoni also mentioned that most of these newer buildings were constructed to replace the old structures that were destroyed during the bombing of Milan in World War II. Instead of imitating older styles of architecture the municipal government used its limited resources and loan money to reconstruct the city from rubble.  They used what was left over to construct a newer city instead of leaving all traces of it behind, quite the opposite of what the Futurists would have liked.

This trope of old blending with new, and not in a clean and uniform way, is a rather pervasive theme in the parts of Italy I have visited thus far. Bellagio, Verona, and Milan are full to bursting with old architecture, landmarks, and monuments that stand in close proximity or even crammed together, sharing walls, so that no single structure can be taken in without comparing and contrasting it with buildings in the vicinity. Buildings like the Duomo or the arena in Verona, I would have expected to view then in their untainted glory, standing tall and magnificent, calling upon the memory and artistry of architects and artists who lived eons ago.

Instead the Duomo exists alongside an upscale mall, above an efficient subway system and in a piazza teeming with tourists.  Even the view from the top doesn’t remain uninterrupted. The spires topped with detailed sculptures stand out against a background of blue or cloudy sky (depending on the rather flaky weather) and the industrial grey of urban construction. This doesn’t really devalue or corrupt the glory of the Duomo as much as its existence is recontextualized.

Similarly with the Arena in Verona, it was quite a task to find a view of any one side of the exterior without including at least a sliver of modern technology. The Arena was dwarfed, in my opinion, by the fleet of Vespas, performance stage metalwork, barrier gates, construction cranes, and oddly a float of a medieval knight. Admittedly there was no time to sit and ponder about the fact that it actually exists today even though it was constructed during the Roman Empire OH MY GOD because of the time crunch on our day trip.

There is such a huge difference in the way important monument structures are treated in Italy versus the States. Italy has made history part of life, carrying it forward with progress. America sets it aside in a museum, to be observed, used as inspiration, never to be mixed with modern life.

~Saniya

http://www.palazzorealemilano.it/wps/portal/luogo/palazzoreale/mostre/inCorso/dettaglioCorso/Boccioni_2

Also visit next door:

http://www.museodelnovecento.org/en/

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